Fish tanks are the single most important supply you’ll need if you’re interested in keeping fish. Fish make great pets; they don’t shed, they’re quiet and they are beautiful and calming to watch. You can find fish in nearly any color you’d like and their beauty can almost instantly banish the stress of even the most hectic day at work.

There are two types of fish tanks that you can have in your home or office. One is the saltwater tank and the other is the freshwater or tropical fish tank. Both of these types of fish tanks can provide a great time of amusement and stress relief. Both of these fish tanks require very little maintenance, but there is some maintenance that needs to be done in order to keep the tank clean and your fish healthy.

When it comes to the maintenance of your fish tank, one thing that you want to keep in mind is the amount of fish that is to be placed in the tank is very important. Too many fish can be unhealthy and unsanitary for the fish. When cleaning your fish tank, you should make a regular cleaning schedule.

Cleaning your fish tank on a regular basis will help to prolong the lifespan of your fish as well as providing a clean and healthy habitat for them. One way to aid in the cleaning of your tank is to avoid any over feeding. Over feeding causes for excess waste to accumulate on the bottom of the tank and requires removal. You also want to remove any dead leaves that resulted from live plants inside your fish tank. These dead leaves lead to algae build up on the glass of the tank. This algae can be removed with a scraper or algae magnet.

There’s more to cleaning your fish tank then cleaning the glass of the tank, as important as that is. You’ll also need to use a filter to keep the water itself clean as well as clean any of the accessories in your tank. Your water filter needs to be cleaned out a minimum of once per month. The gravel or other substrate at the bottom of the tank also needs to be cleaned at least once a month.

Cleaning out the water filter is a pretty simple, but important task. The helpful bacteria which live in the filter carry out the important duty of helping to break down the ammonia, nitrates and other organic waste which your fish produce, so you’ll want to clean it quickly and replace it. Clean out the filter in running water and if it’s worn out, replace the filter immediately. You’ll also want to make sure that the water in your fish tank stays healthy for your pets by checking the chemical balance using a pH test kit at least once a month. You can ask how this is done at your local pet store as well as finding out what the proper pH balance is for your fish.

When it comes to cleaning the sides of your tank, don’t use soap or detergent ” this leaves behind residues which can sicken or even kill your fish. Instead, use a solution of 90% water, 10% chlorine bleach (use only plain bleach without fragrances added). You can wash the sides of the tank with this solution and soak all accessories in it for 15 minutes, then rinse thoroughly before refilling and placing your fish back into the tank.

Taking good care of your fish means keeping your fish tank clean to ensure a safe and healthy environment that will keep them healthy and happy. When you keep your tank clean, you’ll have a better view of your beautiful fish and they’ll thank you for it too ” it’s a happy situation for you and your pets.

A major mistake many people make is adding too many fish. Fish need space! You can get three to four small fish per gallon, or one to two medium fish per gallon, or one large fish per gallon. Make sure that the fish you get can be housed together so that you will not have any fish fighting. When you bring your fish home, float the bag in the tank for about twenty minutes so they will adjust to your tank’s temperature. After that you can put them in the aquarium.

There are many different types of fish foods to choose from but flake foods seem to work the best. Just make sure you don’t overfeed because this can make your tank very dirty. Just feed like twice a day.

Choose a good spot in your house to place the tank. Make sure that the table you put it on is able to support the weight of the aquarium. Water weighs around eight and a half pounds per gallon, so a ten gallon tank would be at least 85 pounds, not counting everything you put in it and the aquarium itself.

The next thing you need to do is decide what type of equipment you want. You will need a filter. I recommend using an undergravel filter because it’s not very expensive and keeps debris out. Another popular type of filter is a hang-on filter. Either type will work. You should get an air pump too.

If it is your first time setting up an aquarium, you probably want to start with something small like a ten gallon tank, and in time, upgrade to a bigger tank, maybe even a saltwater tank depending on the fish you have chosen. Once you move up to a larger tank, you can create any environment you choose with a variety of aquarium supplies.

When you go to fill up the tank, there are several water options to choose from. You can use distilled water or tap water. If you decide to use tap water, you will need to purchase a product that removes chlorine and use it before adding the water to the tank. Add the water slowly so that everything in your tank doesn’t move around or float to the top.

Having an aquarium in your home is a lot of fun and promotes a relaxing atmosphere. It requires a little time getting accustomed to it, but once you do, you will reap the rewards. Before you set up any fish tank, clean it thoroughly, condition the water, and clean all aquarium supplies, including gravel and rocks before you add them in the tank.

The most important maintenance to do on the tank is water changes. Every month you should change about one-third of the water. Use a siphon hose with a suction tube and siphon out about one-third of the water into a bucket. Replace with clean freshwater. Just make sure that the water you replace with is the same temperature as the tank.

I fed the fish once a day, using a different food each day, including marine flake, spirulina flake, frozen brine shrimp, and as a treat, some live adult brine shrimp once a week.

For my first reef tank, I chose a 55 gallon Plexiglas tank with a wet-dry trickle filter, a canister filter, and a protein skimmer. I decided not to use any substrate, since I would be loading up this tank with live rock and did not want to have to worry about inaccessible areas where the sand would not be able to be cleaned.

All together, I spent a little over $400 for this set-up. If I had to buy the tank, it would have added about another $75. If you were to buy everything “new”, you could very easily top $1000 for this same set-up. I have found it pays to check the classified ads and local bulletin boards for used tanks and accessories. If you have the patience, you can obtain everything you need at a very reasonable price.

During the first year of this tank, the main disadvantage I found was the Plexiglas front was hard to clean the algae off without leaving fine scratches, despite using the so-called “safe for Plexiglas” algae pads. Because of the partially closed in top of the tank, it was difficult to get into the tank during maintenance. The one thing I liked about using a Plexiglas tank was how bright and crystal clear the tank looked when compared to all-glass tanks. Despite that one advantage, this would be the first and last saltwater Plexiglas tank set-up that I would use.

For lighting, I built a canopy to house two 36 inch Corallife 50/50 tubes with reflectors. Plans were to expand the lighting at a later time, since lighting is one of the most expensive accessories for a reef tank, and I was trying to keep costs to a minimum.

The canister filter, which had three separate containers for filter media, was loaded with a sponge, activated carbon, and bio-balls for biological filtration. The wet-dry trickle filter was loaded with bio-balls and a sponge filter. I hooked up the canister filter and wet-dry trickle filter to the tank and the protein skimmer to the sump of the trickle filter. Then I mixed the saltwater up and filled the tank. Now I was ready to turn the pumps on and hope there would be no leaks. Of course, there was a small leak where the tubing meets the return from the canister filter. A little tweaking on the connection and the slow leak stopped. I later found a rubber ring used on the Marineland Magnum filters worked well on these connections and could be purchased in a 6-pack at That Fish Place. This set-up was allowed to run for about a week.

Livestock also have natural processes as has all life. All of these processes continue in an aquarium and have to be dealt with. Failure to supply the means to deal with these processes equals a deteriorating environment and disease and/or death for the livestock.

Believe it or not, I accomplished the move with no casualties by the wee-hours of the morning of the fourth day. Setting up from existing systems does make for a faster transition to a mature tank. I detailed this out in my “Moving a Reef Tank-” article in the Oct/Nov issue of the Gravel Gossip. I can email a copy by request.

When it comes to choosing the right aquarium fish, there are a few simple things you should watch for to ensure the success of your tank. Not all fish like the same conditions and water temperatures, so the type of environment you plan to create will determine the type of fish you choose.

You should also remember that some fish prefer to live in schools of similar types of fish, so to only buy one of these particular fish will mean a lonely, stressed fish. The size of your tank will also be a factor in how many and what types of fish you buy. Remember that even though a fish might be small when you buy it, it could grow quite large which could mean over-crowding problems in your tank later.

When you think you know what types of fish you want to buy for your aquarium, ask plenty of questions at your aquarium store. If you already have some fish in your tank, then remember to include this information when youre considering adding other types of fish. Putting incompatible fish into the same tank could mean fighting or unhappy fish that lead to even more problems.

Tank Temperature: Putting tropical fish into a cold water tank will give you very unhappy, unhealthy fish. The same is true if you put a cold water fish into a warm water tank. Choose only fish that are best suited to the tank environment youve created.

Water Conditions: Think about how many fish you already have in your aquarium and how much growing they have left to do before you buy more. Overcrowding a tank can lead to increased ammonia levels which can make fish very ill.

Fish Size: Buying small fish doesnt mean theyre not going to mature into big fish in a few months time. Several large fish in a smaller tank or a tank already populated with lots of other fish can cause overcrowding. This can lead to even more problems.

Fish Types: Not all fish will enjoy being thrown into a tank environment with lots of other fish. There are some varieties that are very aggressive and may attack other fish in your tank and some can be territorial and hostile. If you prefer the look of lots of gentle fish living together in harmony, then move the more aggressive fish to separate tanks.

Food Types: Most people are familiar with fish flakes and the sight of fish coming to the surface to eat the bits you sprinkle over the top is common. However not all fish will eat this type of fish food. Some prefer a little more substance in their diets, so consider things like brine shrimp or mealworms. You should check what your particular fish prefer to eat.

Healthy Looks: When you see the right fish that you want to buy in an aquarium store, dont immediately ask to have that particular fish. Take a moment and check out the condition of the rest of the tank. If you see any fish sprouting white fluffy growths, dont buy anything from that particular tank.

You should also check the other fish in the tank for any unusual growths or fluffy white patches on their scales. These are also signs of bacteria or disease that could pass to your own fish. Buying a fish from a tank where disease is present means that you could be transferring that same problem into your tank.

The primary key for building a successful aquarium is to choose the right fish that will get along with each other and then to create an environment within your tank that gives your fish the best possible chance of living a happy, healthy, stress-free life in harmony with the other fish youve chosen.

People look at Tropical fish just like they are a decoration and not as a real pet. For us hobbyist fish are good companion and friends just like dog or a cat. Tropical fish are like other species in many aspects, and that includes the fact that they have sickness. They can have dropsy, eye problems, internal parasite and even tumors Just as humans, cats or dogs may get cancer or other types of tumors, so can tropical fish. In this article I will review some of these diseases regarding the cause behind fish diseases and how to diagnose, prevent, treat and cure them.

Fin rot disease is maybe the common disease in home aquarium but also very easy to treat, prevent and to cure. The Fin rot disease caused by several negative types of bacteria (bacterial disease), most times we can see the fin rot disease burst the same time with other disease, It is not difficult to treat but if you will neglect the treatment it will cost the fish lives and other will infected. It is also very easy to see the fin rot disease burst especially in her early stages.

We can treat and prevent this disease by maintaining our tank, performing water changes and maintaining our filter. We also should check our water parameters on a regular basis. Another key to prevent fin rot disease is to avoid overfeeding avoiding overcrowd the tank.

Another common disease is Ich disease, Ich is present all the time in aquarium just waiting the “right” time to burst. Ich burst when a fish suffers extreme stress such as sudden drop in temperature or other fish attacks. It also burst when a new fish enterer a well establish tank. Sometimes high temperatures can cause ich to burst too. Water changes are very important fighting ich outbreaks when we perform water changes it is extremely important to clean our gravel. Another way to treat ich is by using commercial chemicals. The last treatment is perhaps the best one; quarantine for several weeks (3-4 weeks) can save the entire tank.

Cloudy Eye disease is a symptom not truly a illnesses in and of itself. Cloudy eye is pretty well known disease and is usually due to poor water quality (high nitrate, ammonia or such) or to a fungal infection. Cloudy eye is a condition in which the eye appears to be cover with an opaque film. Cloudy eye is typically a secondary bacterial or fungal infection.

This disease can also burst when the pH drops too low, when the fish freaked out and panicked and ran into something and scratched its eye or when fish fighting; Fish always go for another fishes eyes when they fight so it might have got injured. As I always say, take care of your fish supplies and treat your tank water, the fish will take care of themselves.

The rule of thumb to feed all the fish can eat in five minutes twice a day is a good one, provided that all of the fish are actually getting some of the food. This isn’t a problem with schooling fish, but a territorial fish like a cichlid can monopolize a food supply. Most aquarists therefore end up feeding a cichlid aquarium more than the recommended amount, and so they must deal with the high nitrate levels, algae growth, and unwanted breeding that comes with overfed fish. This is just part of the deal when you raise cichlids. But schooling fish can be fed quite sparingly because they will feed as a school rather than competitively. The concentration of their wastes can therefore be kept to a minimum, thus giving you a healthy, easily maintained, and more enjoyable tank.

Well, thankfully, it is not hard. We have so many very high quality flake foods and freeze-dried foods that fish can be adequately nourished with very little fuss and bother. You may read articles where it is stated categorically that flake foods do not make an adequate diet for any fish, but this assertion has long been disproved by the hordes of aquarists that feed flake foods exclusively, and still maintain colorful, breeding, vibrant fishes. So why not end this article here? Well, it’s not that simple. Just because most aquarium fish will thrive on a good flake food, that doesn’t mean they all will and it certainly doesn’t mean that all flake foods are good. And of course, flake food is boring. Boring for you to feed, and probably boring for the fish to eat. Boring. This is a hobby right? It’s supposed to be fun, right? Well why not get some fun out of meal times then? So I’ll talk about live and homemade foods too.

As I mentioned before, you may eventually get bored of feeding your fish just flakes. Or the financial realities of purchasing flake foods (yes, you do pay for their convenience) may make you look for less expensive alternatives.

A less expensive alternative to flake food is homemade food. If you like to cook, this can also be fun, although to be honest I tend to think of making your own fish food as a bit of a smelly chore. Thankfully, it is easy to make and freeze enough to last you a good six months or more so you don’t need to put yourself through it very often.

Both worms are aquatic but are found in very high nutrient bottoms. They are most often found in open sewers and therefore have a correspondingly bad reputation as disease carriers. Commercially sold black worms are however byproducts of the trout hatching industry, and so they are unlikely to give you something nasty like cholera.

Black worms and tubifex worms were mentioned in the June 1998 issue of The Calquarium, where Steve Ward took a rather dim view on their use. I however have a less pessimistic opinion on them. I have in the past fed black worms to my cichlids about once every month or so, and have never seen any bacterial diseases as a result. They are also a very good food for bottom grubbing fish like Corydoras catfish and elephant noses (Gnathonemus petersi). In fact, one is hard pressed to keep elephant noses alive at all without a sand bottom and a steady supply of black worms. Cautions are in order however as black worms are very high in protein and fat, and so they cause problems if fed too often. The worms must be stored in the refrigerator with daily changes of cold water.

All the ingredients are processed to a thick paste. Then a liter of water is added and the mixture is brought to a low boil to congeal the blood. I then dissolve three large boxes (36 packets) of Knox unflavored gelatin in a liter of cool water. I mix this liquid into the food (after it’s cooled a bit) and let the mixture set overnight in the refrigerator. The next day I split the jelly into two or three-day feeding portions and freeze them separately in sandwich-sized freezer bags. I keep one freezer bag defrosted in the refrigerator at all times. My cichlids and turtles love this stuff. It sinks and doesn’t cloud the water (too much).

The next thing to know about dried foods is how much to feed. Unless you want your fish to spawn or are raising their babies, don’t feed much at all. Fish are cold blooded, and therefore do not require food energy to maintain their body temperatures. They also are neutrally buoyant and so they don’t require any energy to stand up. As a result, fish can get by on remarkably little food.

People look at Tropical fish just like they are a decoration and not as a real pet. For us the true fish keepers our fish can be good companion just like dog or a cat. Tropical fish are like other species in many aspects, and that includes the fact that they have diseases. They can have fungus, eye problems, internal parasite and even tumors Just as humans, cats or dogs may get cancer or other types of tumors, so can tropical fish. In this article I will review some of these diseases regarding the cause behind fish diseases and how to prevent, treat and cure them.

For example, fin rot disease is one of the most common disease in aquarium fish but it is also easy to treat to cure. This disease caused by several negative types of bacteria (bacterial disease), in many cases we can see the fin rot disease burst the same time with other disease, It is not difficult to treat but if you will neglect the treatment it will cost the fish lives and other will infected. It is not hard to see the fin rot disease burst especially in her early stages.

We can treat and prevent this illnesses by maintaining our tank, performing water changes and maintaining our filter. We also should check our water parameters on a regular basis (amonia and such). Another key to prevent fin rot disease is to avoid overfeeding avoiding overcrowd our aquarium.

Another common disease is the Ich disease, Ich is present all the time in aquarium just waiting the “right” time to burst. It usually burst when a fish suffers from extreme stress such as sudden drop in temperature or other fish attacks. It also burst when a new fish enterer to “old” tank. Sometimes high temperatures can cause ich to burst. Water changes are very important when fighting ich disease. It is extremely important to “vacuum” gravel when we perform water changes. Another method to treat ich is by using commercial chemicals. The last treatment is perhaps the sure one; quarantine for several weeks (3-4 weeks) can save the entire tank.

Cloudy Eye disease is a symptom not truly a disease in and of itself. Cloudy eye is pretty well known and is usually due to poor water quality (high nitrate, ammonia or such) or to a fungal infection. Cloudy eye is a condition in which the eye appears to be cover with an opaque film. Cloudy eye is typically a secondary bacterial or fungal infection.

This illness also appear when the pH drops too low, when the fish freaked out and panicked and ran into something and scratched its eye or when fish fighting; Fish always go for another fishes eyes when they fight so it might have got damaged. As I always say, take care of your fish supplies treat and check your tank water, the fish will take care of themselves.

The plants that you decorate with should be ones native to the fish’s original habitat. This is true even though your individual probably has never “seen” or experienced his native habitat first hand.

In general, five types of plants can be used in your fresh water aquarium. The first type of plant is grown by bulbs. These for the most part produce rather large plants, most of which are far too large to use in a normal sized fresh water aquarium. These plants, such as the water lily and the aponogeton, are much better suited to outdoor settings, especially koi ponds.

You may also want to use a classification of live plants called Rhizomes. This plant has a thick, horizontal stem with leaves sprouting on the top. The roots to this plnat are located on the bottom. The rhizome is used as a “runner” over the surface of the substrate. As it spreads, it grows new sections of leaf and root.

The anubias and African Fern are two variations of rhizomes. It’s easy enough to plant these. You simply tie these to the driftwood you already have in your aquarium. You’ve probably seen the type of plant that looks like a crown with roots growing beneath it and leaves growing above. This is called a rosette. They cover the water by sending out runners and growing new plants as they go. Many times these plants, which include the Amazon Sword and the Sagittaria, also produce beautiful flowers.

Change your filter more regularly to ensure that this doesn’t happen, because it can hurt your fish tank, and kill your fish if it goes untreated. They simply can’t live in that sort of environment.

Ever wonder if there’s actually a benefit to having an aquarium? There are actually studies that are going as far back as the 80’s that have shown that keeping an aquarium can not only keep you more relaxed, but improve your health. For example, seniors who were provided with an aquarium - with fish, of course - had a surprising drop in blood pressure. Just watching fish can help calm hyperactive children, and no, that’s not just it.

If not every week, only about 20% of the water has to be removed, and most people use a siphon. Basically, you put one end of a hose in the tank, put the other to your lips, and suck.Once water starts flowing, put it in a bucket and let some of it drain out. Then, simply replace the water. Once a month, you’re going to want to clean your aquarium tank - part of the experience many people hate.

Surprised? Many people aren’t. Hey, just consider this - many doctor’s offices, waiting rooms, dental clinics, and even children’s hospital wings have an aquarium filled with colorful fish. Studies have been done that also show that Alzheimer’s patients react extremely well to an aquarium being in the dining area. They eat more, need less supplements, and even are less aggressive.

Live plants can add another, more enjoyable dimension to your fresh water aquarium. They may require a little more care but the rewards are definitely worth it. You can start out slowly. And as you gain experience, you can expand the types of plants you use. Not only will you enjoy the experience, you’ll be making sure your fish feel right at home!

Some of the more common causes for cloudy aquarium water are bacterial blooms, algae blooms, high levels of dissolved organic carbon and/or the use of new driftwood.

It’s a good idea to have in mind what kind of fish you want to keep before you purchase an aquarium. Some fish only grow to be an inch or two, whereas other types of tropical fish can grow 12 or 13 inches or more in length! Knowing what kind of fish you want will help you decide the size of the tank they will need. If this is your first time with an aquarium, it may be a good idea to start with a 10 or 20 gallon aquarium setup for now and stock it with some smaller and hardier species.

If your tank has been setup for a short time this may be the result of a bacterial bloom that happens in a newly setup tank or when too many tropical fish were added too soon. This situation will correct itself when a sufficient amount of bacteria establishes on your biological filter. See the Nitrogen Cycle for more information on this process.

Now is a good time to decide on the type of aquarium filter you will want to use. You will also need to purchase a heater capable of heating the tank size you have. Buy the gravel, plants, a power strip and other decorations. A good rule of thumb for the amount of gravel that you will need is 1 to 1.5 pounds of gravel per gallon of water.

Usually the result of an algae bloom. The green water will not harm your fish but it is not the most pleasant thing to look at. This happens because of the amount of nutrients and the amount of light entering the aquarium. Your tank water is nutrient rich, which may mean that you’re feeding too much, your tank may be overstocked or you’re not doing enough water changes or a combination of all the above. Avoid placing your aquarium where it could receive direct sunlight. Direct sunlight will cause not only algae problems but temperature fluctations as well.

To correct this problem, perform 25 percent water changes daily, rinse out or replace the filter media to reduce the amount of nitrates, feed your fish a little less and leave your tank light off for a few days or until the water clears up. If you do practice good aquarium maintenance and still have algae problems, look into testing your tap water. You may be introducing nitrates and possibly phosphates into your tank via the water changes and not even know it. Also look into keeping live aquarium plants which will compete with the algae for available nutrients.

Pond keepers sometimes use a UV Sterilizer on their outdoor ponds to help control algae growths. While we agree that these sterilizers can have a positive effect on the algae growth in your tank, there are better, less expensive methods to use for controlling algae in the aquarium and we recommend you try some of the ideas presented above.

If that doesn’t work, as a last resort, you could use Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Algae Destroyer. The algae destroyer should clear up the algae problem quickly. Please use as directed on the bottle. This is just a quick fix and we recommend that you figure out what’s causing the algae problem in the first place.

It’s all very well to hear people talking about the beauties of an aquarium, how to maintain adequate pH, keeping nitrate and phosphate levels adequately balanced, and so on there seems to be plenty of technical detail available!

But what about the actual fish? How do you choose which ones you want? How do you know whether they’ll be too big for the tank when they grow up, or whether they’ll be compatible with your other fish? How do you find out how to stock your tank?

Here is a quick rundown of the things you’ll need to bear in mind when choosing fish for your tank, as well as a brief look at a couple of the more common types of tropical fish. Hopefully it’ll give you a good idea of where to get started!

White spot is usually introduced to a tank along with new, infected fish or plants. It can also break out seemingly without warning in an undisturbed tank. When this happens, it means that the organism has been present for some time, but has been dormant (hibernating), and that some new stimulus - stress, or a change in water temperature - has caused it to awaken and become active.

Limiting the light available won’t make any difference to this type of algae, since it’s perfectly capable of growing at low-lighting levels. Instead, you need to cut right back on the nutrients available for sustaining its growth - which means feeding your fish less. High protein levels in the tank, derived from fish food, will fuel this algae’s growth.

It will then form a capsule around itself (called a cyst) and will remain dormant - at least, outwardly - for about a week. During this period of time, the cell within the capsule is furiously dividing: by the time that those seven days are up, that one cell has become approximately 1,000 new single-celled organisms.

These “daughter cells” will then break loose and swim freely about the tank, attaching themselves to new fish - and beginning the cycle all over again. White spot is highly contagious and progresses very rapidly. 100% mortality is to be expected unless something is done about it.

Green algae will appear in just about any tank with plenty of light. Fortunately, it’s easy to remove (it doesn’t cling to the glass too much) and most algae-eaters will consume it with gusto.